Cowley Manor, near Cheltenham

As I entered through the gates of Cowley Manor and embarked up the sweeping drive with its lakes and woodlands on one side, I felt I’d stepped into a scene from Daphne du Maurier’s Rebecca, as the new Mrs DeWinter embarked towards Manderley for the first time. After turning the last corner, I laid eyes on the grade II listed manor – a building modelling grace and elegance; yet not pretentious or imposing. Stepping onto the porch, I noticed a display of colourful Hunter wellies of all sizes, a quirky statement of family welcome and an act of encouragement to enjoy and explore the beautiful surroundings. If it wasn’t for the cold climate, the darkening reminder of night time and my rumbling stomach, I wouldn’t have hesitated in pulling on a pair, (the bright yellow ones maybe – which would make a boisterous change to my classic green ones) and gone walking.

Having stopped to admire the grand staircase in the hall, a classic feature in great houses such as these, I made my way to the bar where my guest and I were offered a selection of cocktails. With a few historic features still in place, the rest of the décor is modern, with a funky display of contemporary African animal figurines on the walls, some rather comical adding to the relaxing vibe which surrounds the place.

The quirky décor is consistent throughout; stepping into the ladies room is like walking into a luxury greenhouse with a spa-like feel to it. The Green and Spring products lining the sinks are from Cowley’s award-winning C-Side Spa which featured on The Independent’s top 10 spas in Britain. 

Whilst sipping on a glass of prosecco, we studied the menu, with the restaurant manager, Madara, on hand to answer any questions and make recommendations. The menu is made up of two parts; the chef’s recommendations on one side, accompanied by wine suggestions to suit each course, and a selection of starters and mains on the other with the opportunity to mix and match between the two. Starters range from £8 for a chicken liver parfait with port jelly, spiced cherries and toasted brioche, to £11.50 for baked diver-caught scallops in their shell with creamed leeks. The main courses range from £15 for local Cerney goats cheese and cep pithivier, to £25 for their renowned fillet of beef. The menu offers a good selection of dishes made with seasonal ingredients, which are sourced locally where possible.

Once seated in the restaurant, we were presented with a selection of delicious breads and canapés to nibble on as we sipped on a glass of Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay. Our starters of the baked diver-caught scallops in their shell with creamed leeks and wild mushrooms on toast topped with a poached duck egg arrived, each well-presented, holding a delicious depth of flavour – both of these dishes model high quality and a prime example of simplistic yet superb fine-dining. Onto the main course of pot roast Aylesbury duck with creamed Savoy cabbage, roasted roots and pepper sauce – an exquisite dish of flawless character which bought pleasure in every mouthful. The duck was succulent and perfectly cooked, complimented by the creaminess of the savoy cabbage and the sweetness of the roasted roots. The second dish of pan-fried wild seabass with king prawns, herb potato dumplings, warm cucumber and crab sauce was that of beauty. The flavours where fresh and fragrant highlighting a well thought out dish – I never thought I could become a lover of warm cucumber until now and surprised to say I was pleasantly turned by this dish. For dessert, which was a tough choice with the strong selection on offer, we opted for something a little different to the usual choice of chocolate. The glazed passion fruit tart with yogurt sorbet did indeed bring passion to my taste-buds; one I could shun chocolate for any day. The apple tart with salted caramel ice-cream was also a winner and not to be missed.

A good dining experience doesn’t stop with beautiful plates of food and fine wine; the service  is also paramount. The service delivered at Cowley Manor is spot on, some of the best I have encountered in my dining experience. From the moment you walk in and are welcomed on reception; after speaking to the knowledgeable barman about his delicious cocktails; when chatting to Madara and her team of attentive waiters in the restaurant who show excellent attention to detail; right up to when you leave – the service is consistent throughout.

Cowley Manor is appealing all year round, though having previously lunched on the terrace on a glorious summer’s afternoon overlooking the picturesque surroundings, its gardens and lakes are to be admired and explored.  All-day bar and afternoon tea menus are available, which can either be enjoyed on the terrace or on the comfortable selection of garden furniture located on the lawns, under the big oak trees and by the lakes. A walk around the garden paths, taking in the garden’s wilderness is like scene out of The Secret Garden or a Jane Austin novel – a paradise open to all.

Cowley Manor, near Cheltenham – 01242 870 900

http://www.cowleymanor.com