When the
occasion arises to go out for dinner, there is nothing more alluring than a
restaurant offering fine dining in an intimate ambiance, surrounded by the
relaxing home comforts we know and love. Seeing the husband in the kitchen,
producing distinguished plates of food, whilst the wife hosts the front of
house ensuring the diner’s every need is attended to, and even the daughter is
roped in to do the washing up, is a combination that is somewhat homely. This is
exactly what you’ll find at 5 North Street. Tucked away on one of the many quaint
little back streets in the picturesque Cotswold town of Winchcombe, 5 North
Street has become one of the county’s most renowned Michelin star restaurants,
serving dishes with both invention and elegance.
The little kitchen stationed out the back is where all the magic happens,
orchestrated by distinguished Michelin star chef, Marcus Ashenford. Here is a
man who has built a sound and respected reputation for combining bold,
distinctive flavours and demonstrating his vast culinary knowledge through
invention and skill, to produce high quality dishes; earning him a place as one
of the country’s finest chefs. Front of house is run by his wife Kate, who
ensures the execution of magic is consistent throughout by providing proficient
service which matches the quality of the dishes she is serving to her diners. Great
attention to detail is paid to ensure guests receive the ultimate dining
experience at 5 North Street.
The
restaurant has a real homely feel to it; the walls are painted in a deep shade
of red, bringing a warm, enticing feeling to the atmosphere as a whole, and
with the flicking of candlelight, creates an intimate and somewhat romantic
mood amongst the diners. With a handful of tables, seating around a dozen, it
resembles the feeling of being at a dinner party between family and friends.
This analogy doesn’t seem so odd when you come to realise the room you’re
dining in was originally in fact the Ashenford’s living room.
The
wine list at 5 North Street is one to be admired for its cultural
representation. With 78 varieties of champagne, white, red and rose wine to
choose from across regions of France, Italy, Australia and South America, I
think it’s safe to say there’s something to satisfy the majority of palettes.
However there is a clear French preference about the list as a whole, with
particular favour to wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux. There is very little
written description offered to help the diner make a decisive choice, an
element which would normally be subject to criticism, was it not remedied on
this occasion by Kate and her staff’s prominent display of knowledge and
understanding of each bottle, offering a personal touch to a recommendation.
They were able to assert worthy suggestions on wines to complement each course,
whilst offering the diner a subtle education as they do so.
The
menu is one of sophistication, exhibiting a well thought out display of dishes
with a fine dining calibre. The ingredients used are seasonal and applied with
Marcus Ashenford’s years of knowledge and skill to produce accomplished plates
of food with culinary twists exclusive to 5 North Street. There are three menus
to choose from, each with three courses and an invitation for diners to mix and
match to ensure they get their preferred combination of dishes. There’s
something to satisfy a wide variety of taste buds with a good selection of
meat, poultry, game and seafood offered; as well as a fulfilling amount of
chocolate and fruity numbers to satisfy the sweet tooths in the dining room.
Whilst
diners decide on their culinary path for the evening, little tasters are bought
before them, whetting their appetites in a form of culinary seduction for what
is yet to come. The decadent Welsh rarebits were a pure delight and a testament
that comfort food can be refined into the style of fine dining. These were
followed by dainty little espresso cups filled with heavenly Jerusalem
artichoke soup with a drizzle of chive oil. Served in the famous Winchcombe
Pottery, this added to the local feel embodied in 5 North Street as a whole.
Freshly baked homemade mini loaves served on a miniature breadboard were
delivered to the table, creating a rustic aura in the restaurant’s warming
ambiance.
The
food at 5 North Street is something worth raving about, and the experience you
encounter is a story worth telling. The food served was distinguished in both
presentation and flavour from start to finish, with quirky culinary twists being
the cause for excitement as each course arrived. We dined on guinea fowl and
black pudding ballontine, pickled Shimeji mushrooms, beetroot, pea shoots and
lightly spiced brown sauce; and marinated hand-dived Scottish scallops,
Salcombe crab, sweet corn, iced horseradish and sunflower seeds. The flavour
combinations in both of these dishes were all new to me, offering my palette an
invitation to embark on whole new culinary adventure. The guinea fowl and black
pudding ballontine contributed rich, earthy flavours which worked beautifully
with the sweetness of the beetroot and pickled mushrooms. The scallops were a
picture of beauty; it was love at first sight. However, for real love that’s
true and honest, it had to be good on the inside as well as outside; I mean
it’s not all about looks! The scallops were perfectly cooked, although having
said that, you wouldn’t expect anything less from Marcus Ashenford. Their
sweet, succulent flavour alongside the Salcombe crab coincided tastefully with
the nuttiness of the sunflower seeds and the parmesan crisp. Each character
featured on the plate had been allowed to tell its own story, expressed through
individual technique and flavour without stealing another’s limelight; the
combinations when bought together created a very happy ending. The dish as a
whole was a privilege to eat and one that does 5 North Street proud for its flavour
combinations.
There
are a number of dishes that can make a person smile following the first
satisfying mouthful, but very few are good enough to make someone laugh with
happiness for being so good. However, the suckling pig served at 5 North Street
can and it did, which is one of the reasons the place was awarded a Michelin
star. The belly and rack of suckling pig served with savoury potato, creamed
sage and onion, with a pork reduction is a masterpiece in itself and a prime
example of the skill, technique and understanding of food possessed by Marcus. The
flavours executed were triumphant, with the dish as a whole exhibiting great
use of ingredients, which by using accomplished techniques can create something
beautiful with the level of taste to match.
One thing
that came to light as the evening went on was the absence of salt and pepper
pots on each of the tables. A rare occurrence in restaurants, and at first, you
think they’ve carelessly forgotten to put them out. In fact, it’s very much a
deliberate act. Why? Because from the moment you step foot through the door of 5
North Street, your taste buds are placed in the talented hands of Marcus
Ashenford. As a Michelin star chef with years of knowledge and skill under his
apron, he’s earnt himself the right to judge the amount of seasoning served in the
food he’s passionately created. And I must say, he’s got it spot on.
The
desserts at 5 North Street deserve an indulgence award just for their taste of
sheer scrumptiousness. The presentation of chocolate and raspberry invited us
to indulge in white chocolate panna cotta, chocolate and thyme sorbet,
chocolate and raspberry mille fois and chocolate and raspberry clafoutis.
This
is can only be described as heaven for the sweet tooth. We finished the evening
off with Campari, elderflower and orange jelly with peach and mint salad, and
chocolate truffles. This was a light, refreshing end to a magical evening of
culinary adventures, and the best adventures in life are worth living.
The Score
Food:
5*
It is
rare to find food as good as the food served at 5 North Street. Dishes are made
with ingredients sourced locally around the Cotswolds, with the fish coming
from our own coastlines in Devon, Cornwall and Scotland. Through accomplished
technique and skill, these ingredients are turned into exquisite combinations
that make for an enjoyable plate of food.
Menu:
5*
The
menu here has been carefully designed to satisfy a range of palettes. Yet in
doing so, it’s still simplistic and refined, proposing three set options and
three courses for each. Priced between £40 and £50, this is a reasonable
assertion given the quality of the food and the restaurant’s awarded status.
Diners are invited to mix and match courses, to ensure satisfaction in their
desired dishes.
Wine
List: 5*
A wine
lover’s dream. The wine list offers a broad variety of bottles from vineyards
all over the world. With the collection comes an assortment of prices based on
the finery and calibre of the wine. However, there are options at a slightly
lower price, so those dining on a budget can still indulge in a half decent
bottle carefully selected from some of the world’s finest vineyards.
Service:
5*
The
staff at 5 North Street were friendly and welcoming from the moment we arrived,
up until the point we left. They displayed an in-depth knowledge of the wine
list which enabled them to make worthy recommendations throughout the evening
and in particular, to complement each individual course.
Atmosphere:
4*
The
ambiance presents the warming feeling of dining in the alluring home comforts, creating
a relaxed vibe amongst diners throughout the restaurant. Customers are
continuously smiling and relaying compliments throughout on the food and
service they’ve received during the course of the evening – some, it became
apparent, had become regulars for these very reasons. My only criticism was it
could have done with some music, quietly playing in the background, I felt the
atmosphere was at times, a little dry.
A: 5 North Street, Winchcombe, Cheltenham,
Gloucestershire, GL54 5LH
T: 01242 604566
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