Game On!

Whilst Spring is often hailed as the season in which to experience the countryside in all its glory, I would argue that it is autumnal November when the rural landscape truly comes alive with the most wonderful sights, scents, and sounds.

The faint sound of gunshots echo through the trees from local pheasant and partridge shoots as the guns plough through the first drive of the season. I’ve attended shoots since childhood as (what I thought to be) a valued member of the beating team, although after getting stuck down several  rabbit hole I rather fear the guns thought my coordination resembled that of a pheasant. So, I made the wise decision to turn my attention (and the little dignity I had retained) to the ‘catch of the day’. As children, we would help prepare pheasants for the pot; the fondest memories of this being the fluttering of feathers and the demands from my mother to get the broom. It wasn’t until a few years ago, when I was given a brace of pheasant that I questioned my technical skills as a cook. I recommend that unless you’re feeling ambitious and a little gutsy, to hand over to your butcher at this point! (NB: do keep the feathers, they are stunning in a table centrepiece).

Game carries all the ‘ticked’ requirements we need in our diets. It’s fresh, healthy, very low in fat and cholesterol, (which for ladies is a definite must!) as well as being incredibly high in protein and iron. Game falls into the category of free range, organic produce: deer, pheasant, partridge, pigeon, woodcock, snipe, grouse, guinea fowl, rabbit, hare, trout and salmon all roam or swim freely. Game meats are easy to cook and many butchers are more than willing to suggest recipes.

However, if you are a person who needs a step by step recipe, please let me recommend Clarissa-Dickson-Wright and Johnny Scott’s ‘The Game Cookbook’. This book has become a bible to me and an absolute delight to read. Clarissa, as many of you may remember from the hilarious series of ‘Two Fat Ladies’, is an incredible inspiration and I must say, an absolute scream! She holds very strong views about the countryside which she will educate you on in her book and which I urge you to find space for on your kitchen bookshelves. Game is not expensive to buy and it’s a shame more people are not aware of the qualities it holds. This delicious food is a real taste of freedom and an exquisite gift from the countryside. 

This month, I have put together a recipe that’s easy to make, consists of seasonal ingredients and will hopefully tempt you into cooking and eating more game whilst it’s in season.

Pheasant with Apples and Cider
Serves 6

Ingredients:

3 pheasants, jointed to legs and breasts (ask your butcher to do this)

100g cubed pancetta
1 red onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, crushed
18  small shallots, peeled
Bunch of thyme
1 litre local cider
10 juniper berries
6 apples, peeled, cored, cut into 8^th’s
200g chestnuts
200ml double cream
½ pint chicken stock
Knob of butter
1tbsp brown sugar
Salt
Pepper

Method:

• Heat olive oil in a pan, season meat, roll in flour and add to pan, browning off for 5 minutes each side. Remove and place to one side.
• In the pan, brown off the garlic, onion, pancetta, shallots and chestnuts.
• Add the juniper berries, thyme and return the pheasant to the pan.
• Add the cider, cooking for 5 minutes until it reduces.
• Pour in the stock, cream, half the apple and season.
• Put in the oven on 160’C for an hour.
• Melt butter in pan, sprinkle the remaining apple with sugar, and caramelise.
• Serve on a bed of braised red cabbage, topped with the caramelised apple.