The Graze, Cirencester

Sometimes nothing tantalises my taste buds more than a good steak, mature and ‘well hung’, cooked medium-rare, served with crisp chunky chips and finished off with a generous helping of béarnaise sauce, delicious! Even talking about it makes my stomach rumble. However, until recently I’ve been disappointed with some of the steaks I’ve eaten in restaurants; they’ve been tasteless, overcooked, or just a slab of fat which has almost put me off ordering them for fear of disappointment or food envy of others.

So when independent brewer Bath Ales opened their 10^th venue,  The Graze Bar, Brasserie and Chophouse in Cirencester, conveniently just down the road from my cottage, I thought I would give ordering restaurant steak another try.

Situated in the heart of a buzzy Cotswold market town, The Graze is located inside an exquisite 17th century gothic building, which immediately creates intrigue as to what might be found on the inside. Through the doors, you are faced with a modern, sophisticated décor with a trendy city feel attached to it. Saying that, you are instantly reminded that The Graze is a chophouse by the agricultural wallpaper modelling the various meat cuts on a cow, a subtle education for all. Being a Tuesday night, you’d expect it to be quiet, though we were pleasantly surprised by the vibrant atmosphere of happy diners enjoying a few drinks at the stylish blue bricked bar.

Having carefully studied the extensive wine list, picking out a bottle of their French Sauvignon Blanc, and with the sun surprisingly making a rare appearance, we decided to relish this extraordinary moment and study the menu outside. With a newly decorated sandstone-paved courtyard overlooking the church, this is a perfect sunny location for a bit of alfresco dining or a chilled glass of one of Bath Ales own casked ale beers.

The menu is very  meat-orientated; having built up a sound reputation for serving good steaks, The Graze source their beef locally, choosing from a variety of breeds including Aberdeen Angus, Dexter, Long Horn, South Devon and White Park. However, there are additional options available on the menu which boasts a variety of classic dishes, a seasonal specials menu as well as homemade bar snacks to nibble whilst enjoying a casual drink.

We began with their homemade pork scratchings with apple sauce, a quirky alternative to bread and olives and delicious for those with sturdy teeth. With the help of our knowledgeable waitress, we went on to start with a heaped plate of smoked salmon, soda bread and lemon – a dish that is so simple, yet the flavours are mouth-watering – accompanied by pan-fried scallops with butter, lemon and pea shoots from the specials menu. I must admit I was slightly disappointed with the intensity of flavour in this dish, however, I think this is down to the depth of one’s pallet, though the presentation was stunning.

To follow, it had to be steak, my favourite cut, a rump (which I find has more flavour) cooked on their Josper charcoal oven, served with port and stilton butter, crisp chunky chips and fragrant, creamy béarnaise sauce. And the verdict? This has restored my faith in ordering steak in restaurant, hats off to the chef, this was truly scrumptious.

Now there’s always room for dessert; especially if the likes of ‘chocolate nemesis’ and Pimms jelly with elderflower sorbet are on the menu! I mean, how could I refuse... A perfect combination to satisfy those chocolate cravings, as well as cleansing the pallet with a refreshing seasonal treat after a big meal.

Overall, the setting is perfect, especially when the sun is shining. If it’s for a drink with friends or a bit of alfresco dining, The Graze accommodates all. The menu offers something for everyone, though I seriously recommend you try the steaks. The service was a little slow but I take the view of ‘who cares!’ with good food, great company and a glass of casked ale in your hand, why rush?

To book a table call 01285 658957

 

 

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