Dubbed
as the latest hangout of the notorious ‘Chipping Norton’ set and branded as the
‘poshest pub’ in the county, the press so far have had a field day with Lady
Bamford’s most recent project, The Wild Rabbit in Kingham. Lady B, as she’s
known amongst the locals, opened the doors of Daylesford Organic farm shop aka
the ‘Harrods of the Cotswolds’ in 2002. Since then, having been labelled the
‘eco crusader’, she has opened a cookery school, spa, started her own clothing
line and written a cookbook. Nevertheless, following on with the latest trend
of renovating run down country pubs into cosy, rustic shabby chic haunts, The
Wild Rabbit has fast become the most desired place to “come dine”. It’s so
popular in fact; a table is as hard to get hold of as a rebate from the taxman.
Located
in the picturesque village of Kingham, just down the road from Daylesford and the
dairy farm of former Blur Bassist turned cheese producer, Alex James, The Wild
Rabbit sits in one of the county’s finest beauty spots. From the moment you
step through the front gate, it becomes apparent that despite a million pound renovation
by one of the country’s most prestigious families, this is still very much a
humble country pub with a stylish twang. The front terrace is an idyllic
representation of an English country garden with rosemary bushes growing around
the borders that are lined with the traditional Cotswold stone walls; mini
plant pots containing aromatic herbs take the centrepiece on the vast array of
shabby chic garden furniture. In the evening, the garden is lit by the flickering
flames of Daylesford’s fragrant candles positioned on each table, whose aromas
create a welcoming intimacy of warmth and relaxation from the moment you arrive.
Bay trees gracefully line the path leading up to the front door where two
perfectly crafted, not to mention ridiculously cute topiary rabbits stand
either side welcoming you to The Wild Rabbit. There’s even a sign for ‘dog
parking’ placing emphasis on the fact that this is very much a country abode
where everybody, even the four legged friends are welcome.
The
warming welcome continues inside the pub with the three open log fires burning
away bringing some toasty comfort during these autumnal months. The long oak
panelled bar stands before you, stocked with spirits from local producers such
as Chase and Cotswold Brewery which take the local’s pride of place on the
shelf, alongside a vast selection of locally brewed ales and ciders. Friendly
staff are ready and waiting to tempt you into trying one of The Wild Rabbit’s
seasonal blackberry Bellini’s, which unless you’re driving, it would be a
felony not to indulge in. These can be enjoyed in the snug comfort of the
numerous armchairs dotted around the bar area near to the blissful crackling
heat generated from the open fireplaces.
Alongside the usual but by no means
less beautiful period features, the surroundings include some rather
interesting pieces of modern artwork and the odd stuffed rabbit to remind you of
the name. Beyond the bar is the large open plan restaurant enclosed with glass
panel windows bringing a real alfresco feel to dining. The original period features
are displayed throughout with a historic well positioned in the middle of the
restaurant floor, lit up so that diners can admire its degree of depth. Although
you’ll be glad to know, it’s covered with a thick glass shield meaning that walking
over it when you’re several G&T’s down still gives you a historic sense of
appreciation rather than just a slight feeling of vertigo.
The
décor in the restaurant is very much governed by the love of food, of which we
are prompted by the time of year and seasonal ingredients by the impressive
display of pumpkins in all shapes, sizes and colour dotted around, alongside
cured meats and garlic which hang from the ceiling. The bread table takes
centre stage with countless loaves of freshly baked Daylesford bread for diners
to nibble on their arrival. The open plan kitchen stands at the front of the
restaurant where the chefs are hard at work as the alluring aromas coming from
their creations work their way around the room, captivating diner’s tastebuds
with anticipation. Plates on the tables are embossed with a charming
illustration of The Wild Rabbit’s logo that is found not only on the plates,
but on most of the pottery in which the food is served, as well as the bar mats
and even the paper butter covers.
The
wine list is elegantly presented on script style paper with dishevelled edges,
showing attention is paid to every little detail to coincide with The Wild
Rabbit’s rustic persona. Wines have been carefully selected by Lady Bamford
herself, to complement the ingredients featured in dishes served in the
restaurant and include some of Daylesford’s own sparkling and white wines
produced at their vineyard in Provence. The friendly staff are very well versed
in their knowledge on the wines they sell, and are on hand to offer detailed
descriptions and recommendations on each one.
The
menu is a triumphant celebration of seasonal produce mainly sourced locally
with the odd ingredient travelling in from further afield. Dishes are made using
organic produce where possible to concur with the ethos that Lady Bamford and
her eco empire stands by. The menu is in keeping with the overall theme of the
place whereby the animal in the pub’s name is also an ingredient in the dishes,
offering potted rabbit as a starter; and ‘hare royale’ with truffled macaroni
as a main. One particular aspect of this menu that struck me was the use of
ingredients, in that nothing goes to waste. So where they serve an organic rack
of lamb, they also serve the shoulder incorporated into a shepherd’s pie,
sweetbreads made up of creamy offal and even the tongue is thrown in there for
good measure and extra flavour. Although it adds a quirky twist to the menu, it
also brings an education to diners, presenting them with the opportunity to
sample something they would normally disregard as waste. This is patterned
across the menu with pigs head croquette served on the starters; and organic
blade of beef with ox tongue and roasted bone marrow served on the mains alongside
‘hare royale’.
Starters
range from £7.50 for the crisp pigs head croquette, caper, shallot and herb
vinaigrette; or the potted rabbit, tarragon grain mustard, and picked vegetable
salad – a poetic culinary representation of Beatrix Potter’s story of Peter
Rabbit in Mr McGregor’s vegetable patch, and a very tasty one to. For £13.50,
you can expect to be served a treat of scallop and crab ravioli with crab
bisque, a luxurious and warming taste of the sea. Additional main courses to the
ones already mentioned include a wholesome pigeon pie with savoy cabbage and
cranberry jus to introduce the start of the game season; and a seasonal
representation of butternut squash and pumpkin risotto with ceps. There is a
selection of steaks sourced from locally reared cattle, cooked on The Wild
Rabbit Josper charcoal oven and served with chunky hand cut chips with a choice
of unique sauce combinations such as bois boudran and bone marrow and
horseradish alongside the much-loved béarnaise. Priced between £13.50 and £24,
the menu offers something for everyone, with added seasonal twists along the
way exclusive and credible to the kitchen at The Wild Rabbit.
The
desserts bring a whole lot of seasonal love to anybody with a sweet tooth. The
tarte tatin comes highly recommended and the rice pudding with Armagnac prunes
and madeleines will soon remedy any nasty memories of the version served back
in the school days. However, the star of the show here is the cheeseboard, an
image of true beauty that takes pride of place in the centre of the restaurant
for all to admire with a longing to indulge. Sourced from Daylesford’s renowned
cheese larder, the double Gloucester, Baywell brie and cheddar are their own.
Alongside an enriched goat’s cheese and flavoursome gorgonzola, served with
seasonal ripened pear slices and walnuts, this is a real treat of indulgence after
what has been a fabulous meal.
So,
forget who owns it. Drop the term ‘posh’. Put the association with the so
called ‘yummy mummies’ supermarket to one side. And disregard the ever so crucial
fact that this is the new hangout of the notorious ‘Chipping Norton’ set, an
element I’ve never understood the need to talk great lengths about and yet,
appears to be the focus of some of the reviews of The Wild Rabbit so far. Does
anybody actually care that the Prime Minister and Britain’s most outspoken car
enthusiast might drop in for a pint? Personally I am more interested in some
decent grub, which you will be sure to find at The Wild Rabbit, whether or not
Amanda Holden is sat on the next table. The Wild Rabbit is not your average
boozer, then again are their many of those left in the Cotswolds? Why not go
beyond standard to a place that embodies the warming home comforts but also
injects a few luxury touches. It should be praised and appreciated for what it
offers, which is good food, in season and sourced locally; friendly service,
decent wine and a warm, buzzy atmosphere in cosy, intimate surroundings located
in one of the Cotswolds most charming villages.
The Score
Food:
5*
The
food here is exceptional; seasonal and locally sourced, the presentation and
flavour of each dish is faultless. The chef has provided an educational insight
into the use of ingredients in his dishes which on many occasions, we would
normally discard. What can only do it justice is for you to go and try it for
yourselves, without forgetting the indulging experience that is the cheeseboard
at the end!
Menu:
5*
I highly
rate the menu at The Wild Rabbit, not only does it offer something to satisfy
the majority of palates, but its choice is so indulging that it leaves you
wanting everything. The prices definitely match the quality of the dishes
served which embody decadent and inspiring twists to the comfort food we know
and love.
Wine
List: 5*
A good
selection of wines is offered here with a variation in price to accommodate all
budgets. The staff have a good deal of knowledge of each bottle and are able to
make worthy recommendations to accompany particular dishes.
Service:
5*
The
team of staff at The Wild Rabbit are superb, offering a warm welcome on
arrival; they are consistent with friendliness and attentiveness in providing a
good service throughout.
Atmosphere:
5*
There
is a warming, relaxed and intimate ambiance that runs throughout The Wild
Rabbit. Whether you’re here to enjoy a cosy drink with friends, or an intimate
meal with the other half, it makes for the perfect evening. I would definitely
recommend this as ‘the place to go’ on a date!
The
Wild Rabbit, Kingham
A: Church Street, Kingham, Oxfordshire, OX7 6YA
T: 01608 658389
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