Wednesday 15 May 2013


The Village Pub, Barnsley

Thousands of people from all four corners of the world flock to the Cotswolds each year, drawn in by its picturesque beauty and longstanding traditions located in its enchanting towns and villages.


Though where beauty in the form of historical buildings and landscapes are alluring enough in their own right, what characterises these places is the community of local people who inhabit there. Each village and town in the Cotswolds has a central point where the locals gather, whether it be the church or the village shop – or, in the village of Barnsley, near Cirencester, The Village Pub. Having been recently refurbished by new owners, The Village Pub is not your average tourist trap. This is place that is cherished by the locals who come to enjoy a drink or a bite to eat on a daily basis.

The moment we stepped through the entrance to The Village Pub, we were welcomed by instant warmth to relieve us from the cold winds outside. As we walked into the bar, a friendly member of staff greeted us and as I took in the cosy, relaxed surroundings, I instantly felt at home. The décor is simplistic yet elegant, bringing intimacy with an element of class – everything you’d expect from a local pub situated in the heart of a renowned area of beauty.  And it really doesn’t fall short in attention to detail when providing all the necessary home comforts that assist in creating a pleasurable experience. There’s either a blazing log fire or wood burner in each room creating a source of blissful warmth, adding to the comforting atmosphere that consumes the place. In the bar, a generous selection of armchairs surrounds the warming glow of the open fire, occupied by a cluster of locals engaging upon conversation whilst enjoying a pint of local ale.

Walking into the restaurant, we were shown to our table, overlooking a small arrangement of comfy ‘fall in to’ sofas, positioned amongst other tables to invite everyone to enjoy the benefits of the nearby fire. For a Tuesday night, the pub was full, with few tables and armchairs left without occupants – a rarity I find, for a midweek evening. Even though a tourist doesn’t wear a badge or wave a flag, it’s apparent that the people who contribute to the warm, friendly atmosphere are locals to the Cotswolds. The sofa was occupied by a couple, laughing at something on their iPad as they shared a selection of nibbles and a bottle of wine – a perfect example of the relaxing vibe. It is not pretentious - people are here to switch off and socialise amongst home comforts, gathered together in refuge from a chilling evening in spring.

Once seated, my male companion was quick to opt for a pint of local cider, whilst I, alternatively decided to eye-up the wine list with Zartan, our waiter for the evening. I finally narrowed it down to two, each dry, but with a varied bouquet. To ensure I make the right choice, Zartan presented me with samples of each, an exclusive mini wine tasting session – one of my favourite methods of engagement before a meal. I chose the Santa Lucia Pinot Grigio from Italy – dry in taste and slightly less sharp in flavour than the Sauvignon Blanc from Chile.

Wine tasting over and nicely settled and watered, it was time to concentrate on the feeding element of the evening. The menu begins with a selection of authentic nibbles, quail and black pudding scotch eggs, Welsh rarebit fritters, chorizo sausage, fried whitebait with lemon, and a mezze plate with grilled focaccia. Now I’m known for having eyes bigger than my stomach – however on this occasion I was prepared to take my chances – there‘s no way I would pass over quail and black pudding scotch eggs and Welsh rarebit fritters! Any fears of being carried out at the end of the meal were soon relinquished when the beginnings of our feast appeared – it looked the start of something beautiful. The pubs own take on Welsh rarebit was simply decadent – a real ‘melt in your mouth’ sensation, with a real depth of flavour I could happily relish on daily. This delicious display of comfort was just enough to wet our appetites for what was to come.

The starters were made up of two sections, with the second offering a larger portion option if it was fancied as a main course. The dishes range from locally themed combinations, The Village Pub terrine, local pigeon breast, hazelnuts, watercress, bacon with a raison dressing to the taste of the sea with Cornish fish soup with a saffron mayonnaise and garlic croutons and Dorset crab with homemade mayonnaise and lemon. The twice-baked cheddar cheese soufflé is a favourite with the locals, with the recipe being exclusive to the pub’s kitchen. Having made a pre-dinner pact with my companion that we would share our dishes, we opted for the pigeon breast and the Dorset Crab – something local and a treat from the sea. Both starters appeared both appealing in presentation and each decadent in their own way. The crab was light and refreshing, with the lemon just adding the right amount of taste without hindering the flavour of it. The pigeon, like the crab, was light with depth in flavour that was subtle in richness without being too overpowering – an element which on occasion can be a rarity in game.

For the main course, my male companion, as predicted, was quick to opt for the aged chargrilled rump steak with hand-cut chips and a peppercorn sauce – as he called it, this is a ‘no brainer’. I however, chose to read the whole menu, with my trusted adviser waiter Zartan on hand to make good recommendations. The steak and ale pie, the chargrilled lambs liver, champ, bacon and watercress and the roast chicken breast, savoy cabbage, artichoke, fried ceps and local ham all looked appealing in their own right. Though, being renowned for creating contemporary dishes alongside ‘the best of British’, I only had eyes for the slow-roasted crispy pork belly, green lentils, chorizo sausage and carrots, with some hand-cut chips. Now I’m rather fussy when it comes to pork belly. The skin has to be crisp without overcooking the meat itself, something a few places I’ve dined at have failed miserably to achieve. However, here on this occasion, this dish took my satisfaction to a new level. The pork was succulent, creating that melt in your mouth sensation. The skin was perfectly crisp without being too chewy. The base of the dish was comfort food, Mediterranean style with a light yet warming manner and overall it was a very charming dish. As for my companion’s steak, having managed to prize some away, I was again enchanted. The well-hung steak was fully flavoured, which was added to by the chargrill method of cooking. There was bite, without being too chewy and the sauce was flavoursome yet not overpowering. The chips were crisp on the outside and silky in the middle, definitely well on the way to being crowned ‘the perfect chip’.



Now, with gratitude to the comfy chairs with plumped up cushions, we were able to follow through with dessert – sticky toffee pudding and chocolate and hazelnut brownie with chocolate sauce, served with honey and rosemary ice cream. The honey and rosemary ice cream contributed the perfect level of sweetness, working alongside the salted chocolate sauce, which overall, went brilliantly with the crunchy, gooey brownie. The sticky toffee pudding was everything it should be and then some, which sums up The Village Pub overall.
To conclude, The Village Pub is everything it says on the tin, which when it comes to reviewing restaurants, can rarely be said. This place holds all the home comforts you could desire from a relaxing evening at your local. The service is faultless, again, a rarity – nothing is too much trouble if it means creating the perfect experience. They also make cracking recommendations that are pretty much spot on. The menu offers something for everybody from the wide selection of seasonal dishes on offer, which promotes local produce where possible. This is a ‘must try’ place - whether for dinner or a drink with friends, it really is a pub where enjoyment will be found.


The Village Pub
A: Barnsley, Cirencester, Gloucestershire. GL7 5EF
T: 01285 740421

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